Meraj Hamayun Khan

In the opening lines of his famous poem The Daffodils, William Wordsworth writes:

I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o’er vales and hills.

He evokes a “lonely cloud” to describe his solitary walk. But recently, I witnessed clouds not lonely, but gathered in graceful families, drifting over the green-draped mountain tops of Kawai, playfully beckoning the heavens to join their dance.

The majesty of the mountains and the splendor of these woolly, moving clouds create a breathtaking spectacle. For a moment, you feel as if you’ve been lifted into heaven in broad daylight, gazing at a whole new world unfolding before you. This is not a world human language can fully capture. There is nothing here with a form, a shape, a voice, a touch. There are no fairies, jinn’s, giants, or goblins here. Nor is it a scene from fiction. It’s a magnetic force that draws you in — lovingly yet firmly — and carries you on an ethereal journey that is at once soothing and uplifting. You lose yourself, only to find yourself again, each time in a new form. You take on the colors of the cosmos, breathe in the fragrance of the skies, and float with sacred, unseen spirits that you somehow feel all around you.

These are the dense, magical clouds of Kawai — a lush green village nestled among coniferous and fruit-laden trees in Balakot Tehsil of Mansehra District.

Kawai is more than just a scenic wonder. It’s also a gateway to some of the region’s most popular tourist destinations, including Shogran, Siri Pai, Lake Saif-ul-Malook, and Lulusar Lake. Travelers often stop here to rest and refresh at the famous Kawai Aabshar, a waterfall that flows day and night. Visitors stretch their legs, breathe the fragrant, crisp mountain air, and savor local plums, apricots, walnuts, and apples in abundance.

The people of Kawai are humble, relaxed, and among the most hospitable in Pakistan. The village is home to a mix of ethnic groups, adding to its rich cultural scene. Hindko is the predominant language, while others speak Pashto and Gojri — the latter mostly spoken by those living higher up in the mountains, who are said to be the original natives of the area. Pashtuns are migrants from Swat District, though little is known about the origins of the Hindko-speaking population.

Despite its beauty and bounty of fruits, grains, legumes, and vegetables, life in Kawai is not easy. The rugged terrain makes farming and travel challenging. Summers bring tourists and a chance to earn a little extra, but winters are harsh, with heavy snow and the constant risk of landslides along the 27-kilometer road from Balakot to Kawai. The community pins its hopes on the Balakot Hydroelectric Project, expected to create 2,700 jobs and generate 300 MW of clean energy — a potential solution to chronic power shortages.

Kawai, like the rest of Balakot, suffered greatly during the devastating earthquake on the morning of October 8, 2005. Many lost their lives in their beds, others on their way to work. Most heartbreaking of all were the children and teachers who, taken off guard, perished just as they were about to open their books and start another day of learning.

On my visits to the Kaghan Memorial School a beacon of hope and a living reminder of that tragic morning I still feel a quiet undercurrent of pain, despite the fresh energy of the new buildings and the vibrant young faces around me.

So I raise my hands in prayer for the safety of these loving people and their beautiful land.